Hello! This column lasts already 4 years started from March 2021. Thank you for reading every time! This article is the 50th article, and we will introduce about traditional sake brewing process during the Meiji period to the Showa period (1868-1989).
In the previous article, we introduced until koji making process. We will finally start the fermenting process. There are two stages in the process, the first of which is moto (shubo) making process. In the most traditional method called “Kimoto-zukuri”, brewers use a shallow wooden tub called a “Hangiri-oke” to grind and mix rice, koji, and water together. Many brewers work on the same task, but they synchronize their work by singing sake-zukuri-uta (sake-making song) so that there is as little individual variation as possible. This method took about 1 month.
The next process is Moromi-jikomi (Making main mash). Steamed rice, koji, and water are added to the yeast in three separate additions called Hatsu, Naka, and Soe. After the additions are completed, Moromi is stirred by Kai (oar-like tool), keeping an eye on the daily changes, which bubbles are given names such as “Suji-awa,” “Mizu-awa,” “Iwa-awa,” “Taka-awa,” “Ochi-awa,” and “Tama-awa.” While these bubbles of Moromi are useful in ascertaining the state of it, bubbles are also troublesome because they could overflow and cause Moromi overflow out of the vat. To prevent this, sake brewers had to be on duty to eliminate the bubbles without sleeping. This process takes about 20 days to complete.
When the Moromi is pressed, it is finally ready to be made into sake. In the pressing process, Moromi is placed in a sake bag and pressed with a tool called “Fune (vat).” The pressed sake is then collected in a jar buried in the ground and scooped into a vat. The sake lees remain in the sake bag, so it is necessary to peel off the lees. This pressing process was so hard work that it is said to be equivalent to 1/3 of all sake brewing process. In the modern era, pumps, hydraulic and hydraulic machines were developed and introduced, and in the latter half of the Showa period (1926-1989), pressing machines that did not require a sake bag were developed and introduced. The pressed sake is then sterilized by heating it to 60-65℃ to prevent fire-retarding bacteria, which can spoil the sake, and after a storage period, it is shipped to the market.
As we have shown in the previous and current articles, the traditional sake brewing process is very complex. Many people may be surprised to learn that this complex process was established through the accumulation of experience before science and technology were introduced from the West. The Sake Museum has a permanent display of the tools used in each process at the Sakagura-kan, so please visit and look! We look forward to seeing you next month.
Please visit the Sake Museum when it reopens!